Iimfihlo kwigumbi lokunxiba - uCarolina Aubele

Yonke imihla xa siphakama siphinda isithethe sokukhetha iimpahla eziza kuhamba nathi ”, utshilo. UCarolina Aubele kumaphepha okuqala encwadi yakhe Iimfihlo zegumbi lokunxiba (Aguilar). Isicatshulwa sakhe sizama ukucoca amathandabuzo kunye nokuphendula imibuzo ebuzwa rhoqo kwindalo yabasetyhini: mangaphi amaxesha sithenga ingubo entle emva koko siqonde ukuba ayisihambeli? Bangaphi abanye, phambi kwekhabethe eligcwele iimpahla, thina yithi kuphela: Hayi kufuneka ndinxibe? Nazi ezinye zezinto ekufuneka uzenzile ukubona umsebenzi ka-Aubele, umyili onelebhile yakhe othengisa ishishini lakhe eYurophu naseNew York:

Akukho kwanto apha, akukho nto ithi, abantu abakhohlisayo, kwaye into abayenzayo kukususa ingqwalaselo kwinto abangafuni kuyibona bayithathe ngenye indlela, bebonisa into ekufanele ijongwe.

“Ukuphambukisa ingqalelo akuthethi kuthi uzigqume okanye uzifihle. Xa ufuna ukufihla, ufezekisa ngokuchaseneyo; into efihliweyo ihlala ibonakala. Ukuba ibhinqa elinezinqe ezibanzi kakhulu kunye nemilenze eyomeleleyo linxibe umbhinqo ohlangeneyo okanye linxibe impahla yohlobo lwekhethini, uya kutsalela ingqalelo kuloo nxalenye yomzimba; Into efanelekileyo kukugqoka iimpahla ezenza i-stylize ezo ndawo kwaye ziguqule ingqalelo kwenye indawo, i-neckline enhle, umzekelo, ebeka ubuso kakuhle. Into esingayithandiyo kufuneka ibekho kodwa ingatsali ngqalelo. Imalunga nokubonisa into entle kwaye efihliweyo okanye ukufumana into enomdla kwinto esingayithandiyo. Ukuphambukisa ingqwalasela kuthetha ukungathathi hlangothi: oku kunokufumaneka ngokusebenzisa imibala engathathi hlangothi, amalaphu angenakukhanya kakhulu okanye imizobo emikhulu okanye imihombiso, kunye neempahla ezikhululekileyo ezingadibaniyo kodwa ezingenalo ilaphu elininzi. iindawo zinokulungelelaniswa, ukugqamisa imilenze , amahlombe, i-neckline (kungekhona konke kunye, ngokuqinisekileyo). Kodwa, lumka, yinto enye ukubonisa i-neckline entle etyhila ulusu kunye nefreyimu yobuso, kwaye enye into yokunxiba iimpahla ezigxile kwi-bust, isixhobo esingenabubele ekufuneka siphetshwe. Into emalunga nayo kukufumana kunye nokugxininisa amandla kunye namakhubalo omntu. Umzimba wonke unokubakho kulo msebenzi: iinwele, amehlo, ubuso, izandla, iingalo, amagxa, umqolo, isinqe, isisu, imilenze, amadolo, amaqatha, iinyawo.

Iingcebiso kubafazi abafutshane kakhulu

“Ezi zimfutshane kufuneka zithintele wonke umthamo okwindawo esezantsi yesilhouette, kuba ngokubonakalayo ithambekele ekwehliseni, kunye nomphumo opheleleyo webhloko kumgangatho. Njengesiqhelo, kufanelekile ukuba unikele ingqalelo kwisikhundla: ukuma ngokuthe tye, ukuma nkqo, isitayile kunye nokunika ukuphakama.

“Bopha iibhulukhwe ezinengxowa, oxford. Thintela iziketi ezipheleleyo ezantsi kwedolo, kunye neziketi ezide kunye neelokhwe. Indawo efanelekileyo (ngaphandle kokuba ileyibhile ibonisa ngenye indlela) ubude emadolweni okanye ngaphezulu kwayo, ngezihlangu ezifanelekileyo. Iidyasi, zihlala zisiya emadolweni okanye ngaphezulu, okanye zimfutshane ngokufutshane, njengeebhatyi okanye iiblazers. Izitudiyo ziyanceda, ukuba nje zikhululekile. Amaqonga ayondlela ifanelekileyo yokuphakamisa ukuphakama. Akufuneki zidlule iisentimitha ezimbini. Ukuba zinkulu, ziyasusa ubufazi, zonakalise umlinganiso othe nkqo kwaye zivelise imvakalelo yokuba inani lethu liphela ngaphambi komhlaba, ngokungathi simi kwidrowa. Imigca emi nkqo iyanceda, kodwa ayibalulekanga; Endaweni yoko bayinxalenye yentsomi. Kulumkele izinto ezinkulu, ezinjengeziipaji ezinkulu kakhulu kunye neengxowa ezingalinganiyo. Ngokuphathelene neziqwenga zokuqubha ezibini, ezona zicetyiswayo ziithoni ezicacileyo nezilula.

Iingcebiso malunga nokugcwala okuninzi

Ukuba umzi mkhulu, kufuneka uphephe ukuwukhulisa ngakumbi; Ke ngoko, kufanelekile ukushiya imithambo ebanzi, iikhola ezinkulu kunye nazo zonke iintlobo zezinto ezenza isakhelo, ezinje ngeeruffles, iintsiba, iikhola, iintyatyambo. Ukuba umsitho uyawuvumela, kunokusetyenziswa intamo entle etyhila ulusu: ehlala inika umoya kumzobo kunye nokuma kobuso.

“Kungcono ukunqanda iintamo ezisezantsi, izikipa kunye neehempe ezinamaqhosha: zibonakala zenza ibhloko enkulu kwaye zongeza ivolumu ngaphambili komzimba.

“Kulungile ukuba ungayenzi ngaphandle kokuyimfakamfele, ukuprinta kunye nayo nayiphi na into yokuhomba ekuphakameni kwebust, ngakumbi ukuba ingubo iyeyomzimba; Ngokuqinisekileyo awusebenzisi ukuba ii-prints zinqunyiwe okanye zoluliwe ngaphambili, ngaphandle kokuba sijonge ukubonakala kwe-Playboy bunny. Ukuba ukugqabhuka kugqame kakhulu, imibala engathathi hlangothi kunye neetoni eziphakathi zikhetha ukugcoba okanye iithoni zepastel. Kwakhona hlala kude nemivumbo ebanzi kunye neempahla ezisemagxeni. Kubafazi abanamabele amakhulu, i-soutien ibaluleke kakhulu. Kukho iibras zokunciphisa ezifanelekileyo kunye nezindlu ezijolise ekwenzeni iimpahla zangaphantsi ezenziwe ngokwesiko. Ivenkile elungileyo inokunceda ekuthomalaliseni iintlungu ezisemva ezibangelwa lolu hlobo lokugcwala.

Iingcebiso ngokuqhekeka okuncinci

“Abafazi abanamabele amancinci abanangxaki ngokunxiba iimpahla eziyilwe ngobuninzi, imiqulu, iruffles, ushicilelo, imivumbo emihle nebanzi.

“Banokunxiba izikipa kunye nejezi ukuba azingangxami kakhulu (ngaphandle kokuba bajonge ukubukeka okuthe tyaba, okufanelekileyo), kwaye banxibe iikhola ezinkulu neziphangaleleyo ngaphandle kwenzondo. Ngokubanzi, ezona zilungileyo zezo zinemigca ethe tye: i-neckline ethe nkqo, engenantambo, isikhephe, esibonisa ulusu kunye namagxa. Kodwa ii-neckline ezisezantsi nezinzulu zisebenza kakuhle, kunye ne-asymmetric, egxalabeni eliwileyo, elityhila igxalaba kunye nomva. Izambatho ezinqamlezileyo, okanye i-cache-coeur, ngokuvelisa imigca ngaphambili kunye nokuwela iziko le-bust, lijongeka lilungile kuba liyiphawula kancinci. Izihlunu ezinama-armholes asezantsi nalahlekileyo zilungile.

“I-T-shirt okanye iitop eziqinileyo kakhulu zibonisa ukutyibilika; Kungcono ukubaphepha (ngaphandle kokuba ujonge olo jongo, kunjalo). Kwiivenkile, ukhetho olunye kukunyusa, ukuba nje ayithathi cala, ijongeka yendalo kwaye ihambelana kakuhle.
Kwii-silhouettes ezinesinqe esincinci okanye esincinci

Imalunga nokuziqhelanisa nobugcisa bokukhohlisa ngokujonga ngamehlo esinqeni. Ukuba iimpahla ezikhethiweyo zinesinqe, oku akufuneki kungqamane nesinqe sokwenyani; inokutshintshelwa phezulu okanye ezantsi. Okanye inokuba zizambatho ezinenotshi ngaphandle kwaloo ndawo, phantsi kwesiphithiphithi, umzekelo, njengakwinkosazana.

“Xa kungekho sinqe, ukuhlengahlengisa okanye ukumakisha kuyimpazamo: yintoni esinqeni iya kunyuka okanye yehle, itshintshe ibe yimisinga, isisu esidumileyo okanye isisu. Iingubo eziqinileyo, ezoluliweyo ziphandle; Kodwa, ewe, ayisiyokugubungela yonke into ngephepha: umbono ayisi kokongeza ivolumu.

“Akukhuthazwa iimpahla ezithe nkqo; ezo ziwela ngokuthe ngqo ngenotshi encinci zikhethwa. Ihempe kufuneka zihambisane ne-silhouette, kunye nee-T-shirts, ezomisipha okanye ezincotsheni, zine-notch ekuphakameni kwe-bust (kodwa abasetyhini abakhohlakeleyo kwaye ngaphandle kwesinqe kufuneka ngokuqinisekileyo babaphephe abo behla behlanganisene bevela ngaphantsi kwebust).

“Malunga nelokhwe, ii-cut ezisencwadini kufuneka zifane nezikipa, iihempe okanye iitop. Isongele iilokhwe zangaphambili, ezinje ngeengubo eziqhelekileyo zikaDiane von Furstenberg, zisebenza kakuhle okoko isondo lesinxibo liphezulu kunento yokwenyani. Ngokufuna ubude, kuthathelwa ingqalelo esinqeni kwaye imilenze iyandiswa.

“Phakathi kweengxowa, ubude busebenza kakuhle; ayisoze loo asesinqeni, kwaye kuncinci ezo zichaza isiloji esinamaqhosha asesinqeni. Ngokubhekiselele kwimibala, iithoni ezingathathi hlangothi okanye ezingachazwanga, abamnyama kunye nezimvi zilungile; Imibala ye-pastel okanye ye-strident kufuneka ishiywe ecaleni. Kwakhona tsiba ushicilelo olukhulu ngombala ocacileyo, kunye nemivimbo etyebileyo neyachaziweyo. Imivumbo egqityiweyo, kwelinye icala, okanye itshokhwe emileyo ethe nkqo, enemigca eyahlulwe ngakumbi, inokusebenza kwiithoni ezingathathi cala.
Isinqe esisezantsi kunye nesisu

“Ukuba isisu esincinci sifakwa esinqeni esisezantsi, iibhulukhwe kunye neesiketi esinqeni azinakuhlengahlengiswa nangayiphi na indlela, kodwa kufuneka zilungile. Kukwanjalo nakwimpahla ephezulu, ekufuneka ine-looseness ethile kwaye ungaze ushiye isisu ngaphambili. Kuya kufuneka uphephe nantoni na eyongeza ivolumu kwaye utsibe iibhanti. Akukho nto ifanele ukuphawula isinqe okanye ukugcwala kwesisu.

“Ijean akufuneki ibe zijiyile: kuyacetyiswa ukuba ukhethe amalaphu acekeceke nakhaphukhaphu, kunye novasa oluthambisa ingubo, kunye nemisonto, ukuvalwa okanye amaqhosha athe tyaba kangangoko.

“Ukuba ubungakanani be jean obubonisiweyo buxinene esinqeni, kungcono ukhethe ukuthenga enkudlwana kwaye ukhululeke ngakumbi esinqeni, uze ulungelelanise imilenze. Ukutshintsha nokwandisa isinqe kunzima kakhulu kwaye akukaze kubonakale kulungile.

“Iseti esoloko ilungele ezi mpawu yingubo yomkhethe ekhethe ibhulukhwe emhlophe ephawula imilenze ngaphandle kokuyihlengahlengisa.

“Iilokhwe ezinde kufuneka zithintelwe (ngaphandle kweholide), kunye neetafile kunye neepleyiti, ezandisa inani. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, iingubo ezikhanyayo, ezimnyama okanye ezinemibala engathathi hlangothi, ngokuthe tye nangokucacileyo, zinokusetyenziswa, ngaphandle kokusebenzisa gwenxa ilaphu.
Iinqe ezibanzi kunye nomsila omkhulu

“Ezinqeni ezibanzi, ezona zilungileyo ziziketi okanye ibhulukhwe, ngaphandle kweepokotho, okanye ukuqokelela okanye ukusika: kugudile.

“Umbono kukwenza uthambe umahluko phakathi kwesinqe (ngakumbi ukuba sibhityile), isinqe esibanzi nemilenze ebhityileyo. Kuya kufuneka uhambelane ngaphandle kokongeza ivolumu. Kungenxa yoko le nto iilokhwe zokukhetha icala zilungile, eziphawula inani, kodwa ungagxininisi umahluko. Okanye unxibe isinqe esisezantsi.

Ngokuphathelene nokusikeka, zinokunxitywa esinqeni kwaye zivulekele ezinqeni ungabuyeli ngaphakathi (umzekelo, isiketi esigcweleyo), kodwa ungazibaxi ivolumu esezantsi: ibhulukhwe ethe nkqo kwilaphu eliwayo, izikethi umkhethe, izikethi ezithe tye kumalaphu alula. Ngokuchasene nenkolelo edumileyo, ibhulukhwe engaphezulu kweepokotho ezilahliweyo ayisiyiyo eyona ndlela ilungileyo: zenza umsila ube mde kwaye ube sezantsi, kwaye bayifinyeza imilenze.

"Njengombandela wokungaqaqambisi isinqe ngokukodwa, kufuneka siphephe imigca ethe tyaba ephawula indawo apho inani libanzi khona, ezinje ngezikipa ezifikelela kweyona ndawo ibanzi esinqeni, iblukhwe okanye iziketi ezineebhanti kulomphakamo. , iimpahla ezinqeni eziphantsi kakhulu. Ngokufanelekileyo, iihempe, izikipa okanye iincopho zide kunezinqe okanye zimfutshane kwaye zinento engathathi hlangothi ngaphantsi. Konke kuxhomekeke kwinto ehamba nesinqe ebanzi: isicaba esicaba okanye esidumileyo? Isinqe esiphawuliweyo okanye akunjalo? Imilenze?

Okona kubalulekileyo kukuvisisana komfanekiso opheleleyo. Kufuneka uqwalasele, umzekelo, ukuba injani na imeko yomzimba: ukuba incinci kwaye isinqe sibanzi, ayicetyiswa into yokuba isambatho sangaphezulu siqine kakhulu, kodwa akufuneki sandiswe ngevolumu eninzi.

“Ukuba kusetyenziswa imivumbo, kufanele ukuba ime nkqo kwaye ingabonakali. Ukuba kusetyenziswa ibhatyi ende okanye ibhatyi, kufuneka ifakwe esinqeni; ezo zithe tye kwaye ziyindoda kufuneka zithintelwe.

“Abasetyhini abanesinqe esikhulu kunye neebhotile kufuneka bangahlali kude kwiziketi kunye neebhulukhwe (ngakumbi abo banomtya onqeni okanye imitya enxitywa ipijama) kunye neempapasho ezinkulu, ezimenyezelayo.

“Isinqe esinxulumene nomzimba wesiLatin okanye amagophe siboniswa ngeziketi zepensile, iziketi okanye iilokhwe ezibanzi ezinesinqe esiphawuliweyo, iilokhwe ezinqamlezwe ngaphambili ngentambo yokubopha.

Ubude beziketi kunye nelokhwe

“Umlawuli weCoco Chanel oqhelekileyo, emadolweni, yeyona nto intle kwaye intle.

“Nangona kunjalo, kulungile ukufunda umlenze ukuze uchaze ubude obuchanekileyo. Ukuba amathanga anesisa, kufuneka agqunywe ukuveza amadolo: ukuba mhle, ubude obungaphezulu kwedolo abupheli; ukuba azikho zide kangako, ubude bunokubaphakathi okanye ezantsi.

“Ukuba amathole mahle, kufuneka uwaveze; ngezantsi kwedolo, isibonelelo sobude buxhomekeke ngokungqongqo kubude obupheleleyo bomzimba kunye nenani lomzobo.

“Ngale ndlela, kufuneka silumke sisiphumo sobude beengubo ekuphakameni: umahluko weesentimitha ezimbini unokusenza sibonakale sifutshane kakhulu kunathi.

“Kulabo banemilenze emifutshane kunye nomzimba omde, ezo mpahla zilunge ngaphezu kwesinqe zikhululekile kwaye ke bayakwazi ukuyolula ngokubonakalayo imilenze yabo, bekhohlisa ukuqala kwabo, okufana nelokhwe kwaye begqunywe ngesinqe ngaphezulu kancinci kunesiqhelo.

“Ngophawu olude nolucekeceke, iihempe ezincinci okanye izikethi ezimfutshane zinganxitywa ngaphandle kwengxaki, zidlala ngokukhululekileyo ngobude beengubo. Kwimilenze enamathole anesisa kodwa amadolo amile, idolo elincedwa zizitokisi ezimnyama lilungile ukuba kusebusika, kodwa izikethi ezantsi kwedolo kufuneka zithintelwe kuba zibonisa into ofuna ukuyifihla.

“Ukuba kusetyenziswa iziketi ezinde, kubalulekile ukuba bachaze umzimba: kukhethwa ukuba bamake isinqe, ngasekupheleni koololiwe, bawe. Iziketi ze-volumous ballroom ze-XNUMXs zilungele abasetyhini abade abanesinqe esincinci esilinganiselweyo nesilinganayo.

Imibhalo: UCarolina Aubele

Ngendlela:LN